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Pistolsmithing a S&W revolver Part 1

This will be a long blog about a Smith and Wesson revolver repair. It is in 2 parts.

This actual gun happens to be a Taurus model 66, and is very near identicle to a S&W model 66, a .357 magnum double action pistol. it came into the shop with excessive endshake to the point the gun was locked up and wouldn’t open or even work. I won’t go into too many details about revolver endshake problems. But this is the reassembly AFTER the problem was corrected with new parts and the endshake was eliminated. End shake is a sloppy problem where the cylinder can flop back and forth in the frame. The problem here was there was so much play the cylinder was torquing up to scrape the front against the rear of the barrel. It also had a lot of excessive headspace. Correcting that takes a while to address here. The gun had a lot of high power reloads shot through it. Maybe too hot for the gun ??? Some relaoders want to wring out a lot of power from their cartridges, and often create more trouble than it’s worth.

If you want more power in your handgun, choose one with a larger caliber I say.



The trigger and the cylinder stop have already been put in the gun after a detailed cleaning of parts. The first piece to go back into the frame is called the locking bolt. This is what releases the cylinder to swing out of the frame for reloading.  My finger is pushing inwards on the plunger and spring….



Turn the gun over and reinstall the thumbpiece that activates the bolt…..



The cog wheel and hammer block are installed next……



The rebound slide and spring that return the trigger to firing position are then ” wrestled ” into place……   This takes a bit of effort. During a trigger job you can replace this spring with weaker one from Wolff Springs in order to reduce the trigger pull a bit. OR you can clip a coil from the factory one. Don’t remove too much !!!



This part is called a ” hand “. It pushes upwards during cocking of the gun to rotate the cylinder and bring a chamber into alignment with the barrel. About 2/3 of the way into the rotation , the cylinder stop pops up so it can fall into a notch on the cylinder to lock it into position. The bottom pin on the hand fits into the slot in the cog wheel, and pushes the hammer block into place.




All the internal parts are back in their proper places now. The hammer simply slips dpwn onto a pin in the frame. The sear stays attached to the hammer.



The hammer spring and strut are held in by the mainspring nut. I slide a pin into the hole in the strut to take off any tension. Then by cocking the hammer I can pull the pin out and the spring is installed.


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